Shangdong to Stupa: A Journey of Forgiveness and Conservation
Two years ago, during a winter vacation, I took my four-year-old daughter, Gyanzin Yeeyong Wangmo, to a Shangdong, an ancient wolf trap. I wanted to share the stories of my childhood and the experiences of our village, where people once relied heavily
on livestock for their livelihood. The Shangdong was a method used to control the wolf population and protect domestic animals from these predators. I vividly remember a day when, on my way to school, I heard a commotion—dogs barking and
people shouting. Drawn by curiosity, I arrived at the scene to find a wolf trapped and being stoned by the villagers. The reactions were mixed: some were relieved, while others, particularly the elderly, chanted "OM MANI PADME HUM," praying for the
wolf's soul. This ritual reflected a deep-seated ambivalence—people felt compelled to kill the wolf, but not without sorrow.
Sharing these stories with Gyanzin made me reflect on the complex relationship between our community and wildlife. It also reminded me of the "Shangdong to Stupa" project initiated by the Nature Conservation Foundation (NCF) in 2016. The project aimed to replace these wolf traps with stupas, symbolizing a shift from harm to healing and from fear to coexistence. The first stupa was built in Chushul, and since then, six more have been constructed across Ladakh.
The site I visited with Gyanzin seemed a fitting location for another stupa. I reached out to Karma Sonam, the field coordinator at NCF, to discuss the possibility of incorporating this site into the project. Despite recent incidents of wolves preying on livestock in the valley, including losses within our own family, we believed that fostering a more positive attitude toward wildlife was crucial.
Consecration ceremony of the newly constructed Stupa at Tharuk, July 2024
On July 20, 2024, with the collective efforts of the NCF and the villagers of Tharuk, the seventh stupa was completed near a traditional Shangdong in the Serkungchan valley. This effort, part of the "Shangdong to Stupa" project, represents a significant move towards wildlife conservation and a renewed respect for nature. The construction began on July 14, 2024, with the support of Karma Sonam, the NCF team, skilled stupa makers from Nubra, and the Tharuk villagers. The stupa was completed on July 19 and consecrated on July 20 by His Eminence Bakula Rangdol Nima Rinpoche, Khenpo Shedrup, and monks from Shachukul Monastery.
His Eminence Bakula Rangdol Nima Rinpoche, who had blessed the first stupa at Chushul in 2018, encouraged the community to live in harmony with wildlife and to cherish their natural surroundings . He commended the efforts of NCF and the Tharuk villagers, emphasizing the importance of this project as a model for other regions in Ladakh and the Himalayas, where similar traditional practices still persist.
The transformation from Shangdong to Stupa symbolizes a journey of forgiveness and a commitment to conservation. It reflects a growing awareness and respect for the delicate balance of our ecosystem, where both humans and wildlife can coexist peacefully. Through this initiative, we hope to inspire other communities to embrace compassionate and sustainable practices, ensuring a harmonious future for all beings.
(L) A local lady seeks blessings at the Stupa site in Tharuk;
(R) Gyanzin Yeeyong Wangmo at the Shangdong to Stupa site in Tharuk
About the Author
Dr. Stanzin Namgail
Stanzin is assistant professor of Sociology at the EJM College in Leh. He hails from Tharuk from the Changthang region in eastern Ladakh. He was amongst the first individuals of his community to pursue doctoral research. Stanzin takes special interest in understanding and preserving the human-nature relations in his community.